The Nantes Et Brest Canal Journey
La Velodyssee, Euro Velo Route One – Rohan to Gourec
Rohan to Gourec
Welcome to Part 4 in the series of the Nantes et Brest Journey via the tow path through the wonderful Brittany landscape.
This morning was a sight to see, I first heard the chug chug chug of a boat going along the canal I reached the window in time to see the large wide beam Dutch barge was passing along the canal heading in the direction of Josselin. Such a fantastic sight and sound, it really bought a feeling of joy as I watch it merrily head along. Boats on the canal have been very few and far between over the last 2 years because of the pandemic. Sadly there is an issue in places with a build up of weed making it difficult for some boats to navigate, so when we do hear a boat we always stop what we are doing and run to watch it pass by.
We pick up our journey along the Canal where we left off last in the edition, in our beautiful village of Rohan. Many cyclists have described the next stretch of the canal as the prettiest thus far along the journey.
On leaving Rohan it is wise to collect supplies if needed from the village shop, which is well stocked , including a small range of bike and camping accessories. As you head out of the village you will pass the campsite and the inland port which houses both residential boats and pleasure boats.
A tree lined towpath brings a canopy of shade which I am sure is very welcome through the summer months. ‘Brittany is always raining’ people told me when we decided to settle here, this is far from the truth we are currently in drought conditions and the temperature on my computer is reading 34° and set to get hotter as the days pass by this week.
We are again following the L’oust river with the Nantes et Brest Canal within until the river meets the Blavet river at Pontivy.
5Km along from Rohan you come to a small but very well serviced spot called Boju at Lock ( Elcuse 59) at the lower point of the village of Gueltas. Boju has seen some great changes in recent years with the addition of small camping pods and some floating camping houses for cyclists and walkers to rent. There are also shower and toilet facilities here and a creperie with canalside outside dining and a covered section too, it really is a beautiful place to stop. Also through the summer months there is an art and sculpture installation along this stretch of the canal. To the left side of the canal here is the Forest of Branguily a great place for walking.
Gueltas sees the start of a flight of locks from the point of Boju, it is a steady climbs to begin with and then the locks become closer together as the climb steepens. 19 locks in total in just 3.6km the tow path is good and navigating this stretch on both foot and cycle is easy. I recommend taking time to look for the abundance of birds and wildlife along the stretch too.
Once you have reached the top of this first hill section and you have marvelled in the utter brilliance of the construction of the locks the canal the locks are a little further apart, until Lock 80 Ker Houet , here you rise steeply for 1 km with an astonishing 7 locks in this short 1 km section, if there are boats navigating the canal here it is a wonderful sight to see as they queue and wait for each to pass through. At Lock 87 Du Coredic you will naturally switch sides of the canal via a bridge and continue along the right hand side heading West. A further 2 km along is the next cluster of locks starting at Lock 88 and finishing at lock 96 an exact 1km for this 10 lock section. There is a sharp left hand bend where the canal joins the river Douric for the decent into Pontivy where at Lock 108 you reach the intersection of the Blavet River.
Now you are in the Napoleonic town of Pontivy, also known locally as Napoleonville. It is here I recommend you take a wander through the streets and around the Chateau. The chateau here is owned by the Rohan family , through the summer months the tourism office operate tours of the chateau, However if time is short a walk around the perimeter is just as nice and if you are lucky it is possible to spot the peregrine Falcons who have nested in the chateau walls here for some years. The tourist office in Pontivy is on a large wide beam barge moored as you enter the city along the canal, bikes can be hired from here and it is a great place to check out all that is happening in the area.
Pontivy is linked to the South coast at Lorient by the Blavet River thanks to the Blavet being Canalised. It pays to be attentive at this point and not take the wrong section of canal, this can catch people out. !!! In order to continue along the Nantes et Brest west towards Lac de Guerledan you must re trace your steps from Pontivy Centre and re join at Lock 107 Le Ponteau .
Heading along this section to Lac de Guerledan is nicely shaded with trees yet the scenery is somewhat different. The canal fell redundant once the barrage at Guerledan was created and now as you pass you will see many abandoned properties, fortunately the beauty is that slowly some are being restored gradually.
It is worth noting that if you have not replenished your picnics or drinks in Pontivy that Neulliac is your next stop to do so.
At Lock 110 Porzo there is a sign post to the Chappelle Notre Dame de Carmes, I highly recommend that you take the short detour of less than 1 km to visit the Chapelle with its 18th Century painted ceiling, it really is breathtaking. Here you will discover the story of Saint Catherine.
At the village of St – Aignan you will discover the musee de l’electricite it is again worth taking time to stop and take in just what a mammoth task it was to construct the barrage.
Having reached the stretch heading towards the Lac de Guerledan and the hydro-electric barrage at this point you have a choice to follow the paths along the south side of the Lac or the north. North is favoured by many as it has more to see and the access to the man made beaches with restaurants and accommodation.
For us to make the journey more enjoyable and with few surprises or unnecessary detours we like to plan ahead. So the north side was our preferred choice following the V6 GREEN WAY please do plan this section in advance. There are nice villages and the resort of Beau Rivage to visit too.
Note :- if you are choosing the south side of the Lac please be aware from October to March this section is closed due to the Chase ( the hunt )
Rejoining the Canal as it enters the Lac Guerledan at Lock 137 Bellvue or on some maps this is known as Lock Les Forges. In order to get to this point you will pass a large working quarry on your left when approaching from the North. Re-joining the tow path here will be a welcome sight after the detour of the Greenway. An easy stretch ahead with the most wonderful sight. The Abbeye De Bon Repos rises majestically out of the trees and sits resplendent overlooking the canal. Here you can stay overnight at the B and B rooms (book in advance) or take a break at the canal side bar or cafes. There is also a tourist information office here in the summer months; a boat trip along the canal can be taken here in the afternoons.
Bon Repos is a good place to stop for picnics as the facilities are good including toilets at the entrance to the Abbaye.
It is just a 6 Km stretch now until we reach the end of the section at Gouarec. Gouarec is one of those French villages that you fall for , ( well I did). In the summer it is decorated with flowers and beautiful little shops. Gouarec also has a redundant rail station behind which is a plethora of old Citroen 2CV cars that have been restored and from the station itself you can hire a pedal go- cart that sits upon the rails of the old train line and cycle to Bon Repos, We saw many families enjoying this activity and it is a place we will be taking our grandchildren to during the summer.
Gouarec campsite has bikes for hire as well as overnight camping where you can either pitch your own tents or hire one of the fantastically restored retro caravans.
I hope you have enjoyed this edition of our journey along the Nantes et Brest Canal , for the previous sections beginning in Nantes check out the back copies of the Viemag.
Next editions we will be carrying on our journey with the section Gouarec to Carhaix.