The Nantes Et Brest Canal Journey
La Velodyssee, Euro Velo Route One – Redon to Malestroit
Redon is often the beginning of this journey for some as it is the biggest town with easy access by train from Nantes. Be aware if this is your preferred starting point and using the train to reach here it is necessary to book your train in advance as space for those travelling with cycles is limited.
Starting in Redon be it on your first day or second day, or indeed if you are travelling in reverse and ending your journey here be sure to factor some time in to take in the sights of this town.
There are many places to stay , if you are bike packing then you will find a municipal campsite where the two great rivers meet. I cannot emphasise enough that booking in advance is needed in the popular summer months.
Redon was once a major inland port for industry using the canal and the river Vilaine to transport goods through Brittany. Indeed the main reason for the building of this amazing canal through the man made waterways and many rivers that flow here.
The port is now used for pleasure boats and day trippers. I have long been fascinated with canals and inland river waterways and the ingenious use of these in the bygone era for industry and travel. Having grown up in the Forest of Dean with Gloucester being the main city and having watched the inland river docks in Gloucester go from redundant waterway when the industrial era was deemed not profitable enough to continue for the purpose in which it had been created to the re-investment of the 1990’s for the tourism trade. This has given the Sharpeness canal a new lease of live just like the Nantes et Brest Canal here in Central Brittany.
The Abbaye Saint-Saueur dominates the town near to the point where the two waterways meet, the River Vilaine and the River Oust Nantes et Brest Canal. The canal heading west is interesting from here. The River Oust which flows from the west merges here in Redon with the river Vilaine. This stretch west right up to and beyond the village of Rohan is where the Nantes et Brest Canal meanders and it could be said ‘ piggy backs ‘ on the Oust Rive for not all of the coming kilometres but certainly a majority.
Beginning your journey from Redon by joining Lock 18 by the swing bridge where the large inland port is. You are 95km from the start at Lock 1. French word for Lock is Ecluse
When facing west ensure you are on the left hand side of the canal as the tow path on this side is purpose built and maintained for the tourism industry. It is possible to navigate west on the right-hand side of the canal from this point however it will become more challenging then the left side further along.
I love how when leaving such a built up town which is a hive of hustle and bustle that within a very short distance you are once again amongst the tranquillity of the countryside. The grain silos for the farming cooperative is the last industrial building you will see for some time. Barhuel woods on the right of the canal are dense and home to great play parks and leisure activities, it would appear at this point that you have left Redon and are well on your way West. However, the Barhuel woods are found to be on the very perimeter of Redon. Maybe a little too soon for a break away from the saddle, but if you have children with you and your cycling / walking days are not so many KM then finding this place for some entertainment may very well be a great place to stop.
The straight run ahead is an easy ride and a great place to take in the shade or the trees and the nature around, there are no facilities along this stretch so ensure you are prepared and have plenty of supplies especially water.
This straight sections comes to end where the canal and river Oust part company, the Oust through a barrage to the left of the tow path. At this point please ensure that you remain on the left of the canal.
You are now entering one of the prettiest stretches of the journey. The Oust grows wide here and has an island, near iᶺle aux pies there are granite cliffs up to 50m high which is a designated ‘ Grand Site naturel’ be sure to have your camera with you here: it is rather breathtaking and one of those places you kind of need to pinch yourself to remember that you are in Central Brittany France !!
You will notice a few villages which are just a short ride from the tow path, Saint Vincent sur-Oust being the biggest and about 2km from the tow path. Here you will be able to top up supplies or stop for lunch if this is your desire. Be aware of the lunch time closing for shops in France is generally midday until 2pm, don’t be caught out.
Alternatively there is the smaller village of Painfaut which also offers a campsite and B and B accommodation.
Just after Painfaut the canal branches off west leaving the Oust once again. This is Lock 19 and in the summer months an incredible floral display endorses the gates and baskets, the colours are just wonderfully cheerful and there is something significant yet again about the locks symbolising the beginning of another phase of this journey.
When heading off along this very straight section and comparing it to the wiggly route the river takes, this straight stretch in cycling and walking terms isn’t particularly long 4.5km, one can see the great engineering feat that was accomplished. There is parking here at Lock 20 so if desired and wanting to do the canal in shorter stages this could be one of the embarkation points. This point is also where the River Oust joins again.
Le Pont d’Oust is the next point of interest. You will notice an ancient bridge which is on the site of an old ford and Roman road. There is a great campsite here and also a traditional French restaurant which is popular with cyclists, walkers and people cruising the canal on boats often stopping here for a bite to eat and refreshment. The village of Peillac is approximately 1 km to the left where you will find B and B accommodation , a tabac and a small convenience store should supplies need to be collected.
As you carry on about 800m on the right you will notice the magnificent château de la Luardaie standing proud on the bend on the right of the canal.
The canal now runs along the Oust from here to Malestroit with the exception of two bends in the river where the canal has been constructed. This section is not tree-lined as before and therefore if the weather is hot you will need to ensure you have a hat for shade and plenty of water on a hot day. There are several small villages along this stretch Saint-Martin-sur-Oust is a popular overnight stop for people heading in the opposite direction.
Once you arrive in Malestroit at Lock 25 you will be in the heart of the town. Be sure to give yourself time to spend here: there are pretty streets to wander through with beautiful half – timbered houses some with carvings. The church in the centre dates from the 16th century. Around the church you will find cafes and restaurants. The weekly market day is Thursday .
The Redon to Malestroit route along the canal is a total of 37.6km